What pads do you use for the track?

[Karim]

I know a few members on the board track their car.

I was curious to know what pads you use on the track. Do you swap between street and track pads or keep the same pads for daily and track duty?

What about fluid? Stock? Superblue? SRF? RBF600?

Thanks in advance.

[951kid]

i use rbf 600 and hawk HP+. its an OK compramise but if you can, try to get a dedicated trackpad - in the front only would do.

[Karim]

i use rbf 600 and hawk HP+. its an OK compramise but if you can, try to get a dedicated trackpad - in the front only would do.



I am currently using Hawk HP+ in the front with ATE Superblue. I bleed the brakes before every track day. I get brake fade pretty quickly.

I was thinking about getting a set of HT-10's as dedicated pads. Any experience with them?

How often do you bleed/flush the brake fluid? The high boiling point of the RBF600 is attractive but its $$expensive$$.

[glenspeed]

HP+ is more of an autocross pad rather than a roadcourse race pad. It will still have street pad characteristics and that's why you have fade.

Go up to dedicated track pads like HT10's or Performance Friction 01's and you will reduce fade a ton.

[webbie]

I am currently using Hawk HP+ in the front with ATE Superblue. I bleed the brakes before every track day. I get brake fade pretty quickly.

I was thinking about getting a set of HT-10's as dedicated pads. Any experience with them?

How often do you bleed/flush the brake fluid? The high boiling point of the RBF600 is attractive but its $$expensive$$.
I bleed the brakes after every 2-3 track days, RBF600 is $25 per bottle (1/2L) vs ATE $25 (1L), so you end up paying 2x more but doing 1/2 work less.

[951kid]

I am currently using Hawk HP+ in the front with ATE Superblue. I bleed the brakes before every track day. I get brake fade pretty quickly.

I was thinking about getting a set of HT-10's as dedicated pads. Any experience with them?

How often do you bleed/flush the brake fluid? The high boiling point of the RBF600 is attractive but its $$expensive$$.

the HP+ is a compramise but mine are more ****ed than most because I ran them in the winter so all initial bite is gone.

for the brake fade - get stainless lines, they helped a lot with the pedal firmness my last track day.

if i wasn't so lazy, i'd get a dedicated pad, but for the long ass drive to the track, then changing wheels, then running, then changing, then coming back, i just decided i would compramise on the HP+. it's fine to have fun on, and if you go out for more sessions with less laps in each session, you can try to keep the temps down.

i bleed mine every couple of lapping days.

[Yorgi]

If you are at the level where you are fading HP+ pads then you will have to move up to a dedicated track pad.

I like the HP10 and PF01 which are both about as aggressive as you can find. They are extremely torquey so very little pedal pressure is required to lock up the wheels. You have to use what they call "finesse" when using either of these two pads.

I use SuperBlue ($20/L) and alternate with the gold TYP 200 equivalent. I would not bother with RBF600 ($50/L) unless you are boiling SuperBlue.
I have never had SuperBlue boil on me if I changed it twice a year.

Adding brake cooling ducts makes a massive difference too. Right now I am getting away with running AXXIS Ultimates with my StopTech BBK and Turner CF backing plates and I am not cooking the pads. Without the ducts I would have to use a much more aggressive pad.

[Karim]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely look into dedicated track pads. I do have SS brake lines.

There are 2 main reasons I can see why I boil the Superblue:

- Stock 328i rotors are relatively small (300 x 22) and fail to absorb as much heat as bigger rotors (M3 is 325 x 28 if I recall correctly).

- Driving technique: I think I can brake harder for a shorter period of time than I do now. I have been working on this this season. I did notice an improvement. I will continue reducing my braking zone.

I am sure cooling ducts would help. Do you guys know any good source for a kit?

One question about the PF01's? Is the dust bad for the wheels/body? Performance Friction pads use to make very corrosive dust.

[951kid]

if you go dedicated track pad, try Hawk DTC as well. i have passengered in a car that had them - unreal stopping power and very good initial bite.

i've boiled super blue, but not in this car - my old car had brembos on it and less ducting for cooling......since then i've switched back to RBF

[Karim]

if you go dedicated track pad, try Hawk DTC as well. i have passengered in a car that had them - unreal stopping power and very good initial bite.

i've boiled super blue, but not in this car - my old car had brembos on it and less ducting for cooling......since then i've switched back to RBF



Hawk does seem to have a nice lineup of track pads.

http://www.hawkperformance.com/motorsports/applications/gt.php

[Yorgi]

The PF01's dust is not corrosive. You do not want to leave it on your wheels for too long or it will eventually stick to the wheels. They fade at 2000°F which is better than any other pad by ~400°F.

Whatever you do don't use Hawk Blues. Those give off hot sparks that will destroy your wheels and car paint. Plus they eat rotors if you drive on them when they are cold.

Here is another reason I think RBF600 is not worth it.
Ate Superblue Dry/Wet – 536°F / 396°F
Motul RBF600 Dry/Wet - 593°F / 420°F
Both of these fluids are close in wet boiling points. Brake fluid is considered "wet" when it contains >3% water by volume. This will happen after a few months in the system.

So if you are boiling fluid you should probably bleed right before the track day to ensure your fluid is dry. And braking harder and later will make a huge difference too.

[Karim]

The PF01's dust is not corrosive. You do not want to leave it on your wheels for too long or it will eventually stick to the wheels. They fade at 2000°F which is better than any other pad by ~400°F.

Whatever you do don't use Hawk Blues. Those give off hot sparks that will destroy your wheels and car paint. Plus they eat rotors if you drive on them when they are cold.

Here is another reason I think RBF600 is not worth it.
Ate Superblue Dry/Wet – 536°F / 396°F
Motul RBF600 Dry/Wet - 593°F / 420°F
Both of these fluids are close in wet boiling points. Brake fluid is considered "wet" when it contains >3% water by volume. This will happen after a few months in the system.

So if you are boiling fluid you should probably bleed right before the track day to ensure your fluid is dry. And braking harder and later will make a huge difference too.


Thanks for the info Yorgi
:thumbsup:

Sounds like the PF01 are a contender :)

[jaym3smg]

You won't be disappointed with PF01's. They don't seem to ever fade, they bite very hard, and they don't seem to wear very fast. I've been through 2 track days and they don't seem to be down at all. Also, they aren't very hard on rotors and the dust comes off without any issues.

After using them I happily pay the inflated price, knowing they will always grip when I need them to and though they cost twice as much as other pads, last 3 times longer (so I've heard from others).

-J

[Karim]

You won't be disappointed with PF01's. They don't seem to ever fade, they bite very hard, and they don't seem to wear very fast. I've been through 2 track days and they don't seem to be down at all. Also, they aren't very hard on rotors and the dust comes off without any issues.

After using them I happily pay the inflated price, knowing they will always grip when I need them to and though they cost twice as much as other pads, last 3 times longer (so I've heard from others).

-J



Good to hear woot

[fayraree]

Hmmm...PF01s it is, I guess...

[Yorgi]

Hmmm...PF01s it is, I guess...lol...I see you've been reading EVERY tracking thread created since 2005! :D

[jaym3smg]

Hmmm...PF01s it is, I guess...

If you dont mind changing them... You can't use them on the street, they squeal VERY bad when they aren't in their element.

-J

[fayraree]

lol...I see you've been reading EVERY tracking thread created since 2005! :D
;)

If you dont mind changing them... You can't use them on the street, they squeal VERY bad when they aren't in their element.

-J
absolutely!!! I'd feel like such a bad ass if I could lie down with my face under the wheel well changing these bad boys at the track!!!! woot :yourmyido :cool:

[glenspeed]

If you dont mind changing them... You can't use them on the street, they squeal VERY bad when they aren't in their element.

-J

so far this season, I've left them on for the street and it just pisses off the people at bus stops, valets...generally annoying

it's not as bad, but it does squeal alot when coming to a stop once the transfer layer wears off it gets worse....

[webbie]

I read that PF01 is hard on the rotor when cold, but gentle on the rotor when they heated up to working temperature. Is that right, Glen?

[jaym3smg]

;)

absolutely!!! I'd feel like such a bad ass if I could lie down with my face under the wheel well changing these bad boys at the track!!!! woot :yourmyido :cool:

Actually, it's better to change them the day before. Then drive them down to the track. The PF01's will take the street pad layer off and then within 1-2 laps at the track they are bedded in properly. Then on your way home at low speed the PF01's cold will actually take off their OWN layer so you don't have to bed your street pads back in much when you put them back on.

I read about this on Zeckhausen's site or PF's.. can't remember, but it works!

-J