PDA

View Full Version : S Pipe install DIY with pics



glenspeed
01-14-2005, 09:04 AM
Finally got the S pipe in last night...took 2 hours, broke a seized bolt and got real dirty in the face again :angry:
Taking out the OEM was the biggest issue, probably took about 1.5 hours just for that.

The elbow joint and ratchet extension is a MUST to get at the inner bolts.

The external TORX socket sized E12 is a MUST

Bolt sizes:
Manifold to midpipe bolts: (4)
Front - 14mm
Back - E12 External Torx

Midpipe 1 to Midpipe 2 bolts: (6)
Front - 12mm
Back - 13mm

Step 1
Remove all the bolts (easier said than done) and the OEM midpipe should wiggle loose. The manifold has smaller male tubes that insert into the midpipe so you will have to wiggle that back and forth to get it free. I found it easier to do this once the back end of the midpipe was dropped below the connecting midpipe to give more clearance.

Step 2
Drop out OEM midpipe and put new gaskets between 1 & 2 midpipe (silver triangular gaskets). I know from installing the X pipe that it's hard to align all the holes in the gasket with the midpipe bolt holes because it sits within the diameter of the mounting flange. i.e. There's no way to hold the gasket and mount the midpipes together and keep the holes in the gasket lined up with the bolt holes because it either slips out or moves out of place.
What I did was take a bit of masking tape and held the top part of the gasket in place already lined up with the holes and then once I mated the two midpipes together and put the bolts through, I could remove the tape.

Step 3
Insert front of midpipe first because the male end of the manifold must go into the midpipe, then mount the back end of the midpipe.

Step 4
Tighten all bolts!

Review
Everything on the flanges on both manifold side and X pipe side lined up pretty well. It did take a little pulling and wiggling to get the bolt holes lined up exactly for the bolts to push through, but nothing serious. It's way easier putting the thing in than taking it out, that is for sure.

When putting in the new midpipe it didn't have enough clearance on the driver's side pipe with the transmission support brace. I couldn't do anything about it since I had bolted everything up. I don't think there was anything I could do to give it more clearance in any event because the manifold isn't moving and the X pipe would not drop any more because it is supported by a reverse hanger.

I think I might have to bring it in somewhere to have somebody bend the S pipe just enough to make the clearance. When I started the car, there wasn't a huge vibration, but a little and only sporadically. I can live with this until I have time to bring it in...I'm certainly not going to go back underneath and putting the OEM back on now!

First Impressions
When I first started the car (except for the minor sporadic vibration) the throttle felt much more responsive. Hard to believe one resonator can make such a difference. My guess is that since it is so close to the manifold it really chokes the airflow.

The engine seems to rev alot easier!

Sound
The sound is absolutely gorgeous. Still have the famous rasp, (but I like it that way) but there is a more forceful tone. Slightly deeper, but not alot more (I had X pipe on before) but there is a kind of growling howl to the exhaust note.

Revving the car really makes the Supersprint exhaust really sing now. Man it sounds awesome. THIS is the way it should sound. I LOVE IT!!!

Drive
On my way to work, this thing definately has more response. At about 2500rpm, the exhaust note changes and it get's that angry growling howl I mentioned above.

When you give it throttle it has an explosive characteristic to the exhaust that it never had before. I think this is in part to the increased responsiveness that I mentioned. When you floor it anywhere above 3500rpm, the exhaust just wails and the tone explodes into the growl/howl exhaust note.
When I mean explode, I mean the exhaust note just blasts out of the exhaust whereas before it would kind of roll out.

Don't know if it is because it was so cold this morning or because there is more responsiveness/power, but when I floored the throttle on the highway I had nice squirm in the rear end! (traction control off) Nah, probably because it was so cold!!

oyster
01-14-2005, 09:16 AM
:yourmyido :yourmyido

BlueSky
01-14-2005, 09:41 AM
congrads!! u finally made it!!! :yourmyido

glenspeed
01-14-2005, 10:03 AM
only thing I have to figure out what I can do about the transmission brace clearance problem...

anyone??

M333ee
01-14-2005, 10:16 AM
Gotta hear your exhaust now Glen :thumbsup:

:yourmyido :yourmyido :yourmyido

christyles
01-14-2005, 10:23 AM
Nice work Glen. Great step by step DIY. Now only if most of us had an M3 to apply it too. Well not me. I'm a sedan guy.

**Moving this thread to DIY forum.

M007
01-14-2005, 10:37 AM
only thing I have to figure out what I can do about the transmission brace clearance problem...

anyone??Ah man, If I see this post earlier I could get you the clearance. My buddy when skiing today for a week.

glenspeed
01-14-2005, 10:52 AM
Ah man, If I see this post earlier I could get you the clearance. My buddy when skiing today for a week.

I don't know short of bending the midpipe a little how you would get more clearance...

M007
01-14-2005, 10:57 AM
I guess you only have it off. Not on right? My buddy said becareful with the gasket. They can be damage very easy.

glenspeed
01-14-2005, 01:33 PM
I guess you only have it off. Not on right? My buddy said becareful with the gasket. They can be damage very easy.

no everything is on. No problems with the gaskets. I bought new ones.

Quickid
01-14-2005, 02:38 PM
First of all, good job. It's nice to see people who actually get their hands dirty.

I'm curious though.... is the single resonator in one of the pipes the only difference between the stock pipes and the ones you put on? Did you consider a simpler solution, like... bring it to a muffler shop, have them cut the resonator and weld a stainless pipe in its place for less than $50?

I had my resonator replaced with a stainless pipe the cut and weld method and it feels and sounds awesome.

M007
01-14-2005, 02:46 PM
Hey Jos, long time no hear. :)
I was even think just ram a stick in the resonator and clean it out to hollow.

Quickid
01-14-2005, 02:54 PM
Hey Jos, long time no hear. :)
I was even think just ram a stick in the resonator and clean it out to hollow.
I'm not sure that will be do the trick... the sound deadening material is located in the bulge that's why it's shaped like that. Just cut it clean and replace with stainless steel. It might seem ghetto but if done right it won't look ugly. Besides, who looks down there anyway.

So how are things Gary, PM me so we don't hijack Glenspeed's thread.

glenspeed
01-14-2005, 03:16 PM
First of all, good job. It's nice to see people who actually get their hands dirty.

I'm curious though.... is the single resonator in one of the pipes the only difference between the stock pipes and the ones you put on? Did you consider a simpler solution, like... bring it to a muffler shop, have them cut the resonator and weld a stainless pipe in its place for less than $50?

I had my resonator replaced with a stainless pipe the cut and weld method and it feels and sounds awesome.

Thanks! Yah, now that I have the OEM out and compared the size of the pipes and everything else, I'm thinking of doing that and selling the S pipe! (save my money for other mods ha ha)
The resonator is the only difference.
BTW, where did you go to get the welding/cutting done?

Morgiastic
01-14-2005, 04:56 PM
I am thinking about replacing the resonator on my S pipe with a stainless steel pipe. If you live in Toronto, you can go to Hot Rod Scott's.. they do alot of custom exhausts

http://www.hotrodscotts.com/content_lng01/home.html
That's where I got a custom resonator replacement pipe for my ex-E55 AMG! all mendral bend

glenspeed
01-14-2005, 08:20 PM
thanks Morg..it looks like the place for exhaust work! how are their rates?

Quickid
01-15-2005, 01:34 AM
BTW, where did you go to get the welding/cutting done?

JPG Exhaust in Oakville (jpgexhaust.com).

M007
01-15-2005, 09:32 AM
I don't like touching my stock part because eventually you need to put it back to sell the car unless you are selling it it the way it is.

glenspeed
01-15-2005, 12:00 PM
I don't like touching my stock part because eventually you need to put it back to sell the car unless you are selling it it the way it is.

I guess for something like that, no one would even notice since it is at the bottom of the car and not a piece normally looked at.

I will probably keep the S pipe as if I do have to return the car back to stock I know I won't have hassles. Imagine trying to buy a stock midpipe if you can't find it used! Don't even want to know what the stealer would charge for that...

M007
01-15-2005, 12:29 PM
I can't imagine the price too. Maybe you get lucky will cost just a arm and not the leg. :p

glenspeed
01-15-2005, 10:45 PM
ok, update. Got some advice that I should loosen all the bolts from the exhaust back and try to move the midpipe that is causing the vibration around until I get clearance.

Crawled back underneath the car tonight and did that. Found out that the manifold flanges had a bit of play and I could rotate the midpipe enough to give it some more clearance. Not alot but just enough that it doesn't vibrate. Tightened all the bolts back up and so far no vibration!

M007
01-16-2005, 02:02 AM
I was going to let you know how I got my TSE 2 install properly. You got the idea now. My buddy got all the bolt loose and adjust it one at a time. Hope to see you car soon. I definitley want to hear this sucker. :)

glenspeed
01-16-2005, 07:22 AM
well, I learned something about the midpipe and manifold adjustment now! woot