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View Full Version : Halo Kill Switch Install by Regin8r



christyles
10-29-2004, 01:28 PM
It was pretty easy....took about 0.5 hours to wire up to test. But took me like 2 hours to fit and solder the wires properly so they could be hidden in the stock wire holders for the most part.

I spent a total of 5 hours redoing the halos (spread out over 2 evenings. I took the headlights apart again to silicone the halos to the headlights. I told Umnitza how my halos were slowly becoming angled/crooked (since one of my clips were installed upside down ) whenever my headlights autolevel, and he suggested that I could use silicone to hold it in place.

I put a small dab under each clip to hold the clip in place. Even after drying, it is flexible and the halo can still be removed if I wanted to cut the silicone. Without cutting the silicone, that sucker isn't going anywhere. I let it dry overnight exposed and in the proper position so it looks much better/evenly spaced now.

Since I bought an entire tube of silicone, I also put some on the wire leads that come out of the ballasts, and into the connectors to seal it better (The reason is that I also did an engine shampoo on the weekend which cause one of my halos to not work for a whole day).

The switch wires I used were kind of thick, so that's why I had problems getting it to fit in that wire holder across the top of the engine.

So I basically spend about 2 evenings waterproofing and perfecting my halo install. It was good that I watched Chris and Alun install the halos, since now I can take apart the front end in a jiffy.

DIY for the wiring is easy:

From battery, wire to switch, connect swtich to Halo fuse wire (which was originally connected to battery).

From footwell lighting, wire to switch, and the switch to footwell wire tap (from remote mod).

The switch has 2 throws, just make sure the power (from battery and from footwell) are connected to the same position on each throw.

Not rocket science at all.




I'll take some pics tonight.

Reg

Chopper
10-29-2004, 01:57 PM
GReat work Reg. :yourmyido

I have a HALO that seems to angle out over time as well so I may have to try your fix. Cant wait for the pics to see if I can do the kill switch too.

oyster
10-29-2004, 11:22 PM
what's the purpose of the kill switch again?

Regin8r
10-29-2004, 11:38 PM
It disables the Halos.

I will take the pics in the morning. Camera battery is dead. :angry:

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:09 PM
Before you begin

You will need:

Wire (I bought 16ft and that was more than enough)
DP Switch

Tools:
Phillips head (to remove interior underpanel)
Flat head (to remove interior underpanel)
Needle Nose pliers (for bending/cutting wires)
Soldering iron (for connections)
Torx drive (to remove ECU cover)
Drill (for installing the switch) and bit that will cut space big enough to fit the switch.

If you don't want to solder, you can use crimp spade terminals and stick them onto the switch. However, at 11pm at night, kind of hard to find a store to buy them.

The first thing I did was cut the wire coming out of the battery terminal, and run the new wires (2 of them; 1 to switch, 1 from switch).

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:11 PM
I took the first picture too high, so you can't see the connection from the switch connecting to the wire with the "fused" wire of the halo. But you can see it in this picture.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:13 PM
The 2 new wires run across the top of the engine to the ECU. I ran the wires inside that plastic wire holder thing (it took a good 15 minutes of trying different configurations before I got it to all fit).

The wire will enter the cabin through the ECU hold like the remote mod wire.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:15 PM
Inside the cabin, I already put everything back, but I took it out again to take some pics. :)

I had to drill a hole in that cover to fit the switch. I used a 3/4" spade bit which cut enough space for the switch that I was using. Make sure you fasten it to the panel BEFORE you start wiring since it is a big pain to take out the wire once you have it working with the switch.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:23 PM
My pic is a little blurry, but essentially there are 6 prongs at the back of the switch. However, I really only need 4 of them since all I wanted was a simple on/off switch.

It will look like this:

- - (1)
- -
- - (0)

The (1) and (0) denote the markings on the switch.

You can wire this a number of ways. You just have to make sure both source wires (from the footwell lighting and from the battery) are soldered onto the same row.

On the other row, you solder on the wire to the remote mod and the wire that leads to the fuse wire.

Although, I think it is pretty obvious, you want to make sure you don't leave an empty row in between the rows of wires. So make sure you don't solder on the top and bottom row. The middle MUST be used.

In my configuration, I have it like this:

X X (To Remote Mod and Fuse Wire)
X X (From Footwell Lighting and From Battery)
- - (Blank)

You can wire it up temporarily anyways just to ensure the (1) means on and the (0) means off.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:27 PM
Once your tested it and solder it, you can put everything back together.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:32 PM
Since I was fooling around with my car, I took apart my front end and straightened my crooked Halo.

From the top view, because I had an upside down clip, my halos looked like this:
-/ --

And I wanted them to look like this:
-- --

So I siliconed on the halos and fixed my crooked one.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:36 PM
Since I bought a tube of silicone, I had lots of extra so I sealed of the the wiring stuff up. In fact I still have 95% of the tube, so if anyone needs to borrow it, let me know.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:36 PM
After siliconing, I wrapped it electrical tape. I also secure the ballast right side up (by my standards) under the frame. Before with the double sided tape, I considered that to be upside down. Basically I wanted the cover part, the part that is not sealed and has slight gap in the ballast, on the bottom.

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 12:53 PM
And to top it all off, I did a complete clean up of the exterior including fabric protecting my roof and a few coats of Zaino.

Chopper
10-30-2004, 02:30 PM
Great work. nice pics reg. I love the perfect product shot by the way.
:)

Regin8r
10-30-2004, 02:53 PM
Great work. nice pics reg. I love the perfect product shot by the way.
:)

BOO YEAH!

Actually, that's only the stuff I currently use. There's a lot more stuff that I don't used anymore that probably won't fit in a single picture if I have to photograph it. I have almost the entire Meguiar's line. :eek:

christyles
10-30-2004, 02:55 PM
BOO YEAH!

Actually, that's only the stuff I currently use. There's a lot more stuff that I don't used anymore that probably won't fit in a single picture if I have to photograph it. I have almost the entire Meguiar's line. :eek:
Meguiars... :Qboy:

Chopper
10-30-2004, 03:10 PM
BOO YEAH!

Actually, that's only the stuff I currently use. There's a lot more stuff that I don't used anymore that probably won't fit in a single picture if I have to photograph it. I have almost the entire Meguiar's line. :eek:

Same here. I have mother's meguiare's etc. but have now moved to better products. :D

M333ee
11-01-2004, 09:30 AM
Great pics and write up Reg :thumbsup: